Paris is the most glamorous city in Europe, for Paris can feel inhumanly magnificent, the superiority of its monuments encompassing the cool splendor of the Panthéon, the industrial well-groomed of the Eiffel Tower and the almost spiritual glasswork of the Louvre pyramid. Yet it also actively work on a very human scale, with wonderful, enigmatic little corners tucked away from the Grands Boulevards and very definite little communities revolving around games of boules and the local boulangerie and café. It is at once deeply traditional like a village such as the metropolis whose residents continue to be infamous for their arrogance and legendary cosmopolitan. And even as Paris's culture is transformed by its large immigrant and gay populations, even as overstated new buildings are commissioned and rigid, many of the city's streets, cafés and restaurants remain remarkably, rebelliously unchanged.
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